Mom arrived last Friday and we spent a wonderful week touring the Southeast part of Germany. We not only visited the Hohenzollern castle, which is a half-hour away from Tuebingen, but we also visited Wurzburg, Rothenburg, Fussen, and Schloss Newschwanstein. It was such a wonderful week and it’s hard to believe that it’s already over. Mom left on her plane back to Phoenix today. We did so much that some of it blurs together but I think I can give you a pretty good description of each of the places we visited.
Hohenzollern Castle
After we drove to Tuebingen from Stuttgart, we decided to go see Schloss (Castle) Hohenzollern. It is a half-hour south from Tuebingen and it is the seat of (you guessed it) the Hohenzollern family. This family came to power in the Middle Ages and ruled Prussia and Bradenburg until the end of WWI. Although by the time of WWI, they ruled all of Germany not just these two states; this is the family that produced the two German Kaisers. The castle was originally built in the 11th century but it was remodeled twice; once in the 15th century and the last time between 1846 and 1867.
The family did not regularly occupy the castle until 1945 when Kaiser Wilhelm II’s son made it his home. Wilhelm II’s great grandson now inhabits the castle. It is still a privately owned building.
The Castle is a very majestic-looking place because it sits upon a high hill, which overlooks a small Hamlet on one side and a valley on the other. It would be a long way down if someone fell off the outer wall. Although Mom and I took a tour of the inside of the place, they only offered tours in German so I only understood part of what he was saying. I translated what I could understand to Mom but unfortunately I’m not sure she really received a lot of historical information from this tour.
There are many special artifacts in this castle. They have, for instance, the crown of Kaiser Wilhelm II’s on display as well as some clothing and a schnuff box from Friedrich the Great. It also has a letter from Baron von Steuben to George Washington and Washington’s reply. Baron von Steuben served in the Continental Army as a General during the Revolutionary War. The letter George Washington wrote to Von Steuben was his last letter during his time in office.
We also found a painting of Sophie Charlotte (I think that’s the name) in the Schloss. She was the wife of Frederick I of Prussia and she was the one who gave Ali (our Turkish ancestor) his freedom.
Wurzburg
On Monday, mom and I traveled to Wurzburg. Through mom’s travel book we learned about the “Romantic Road” and decided to visit some of the cities on this trail. The road takes travelers through many old and beautiful towns and ends with the scenic views of the Alps and Schloss Neuschwanstein.
Wurzburg is a very pretty town but it looked like a renaissance Italian city rather than a German one. It also has a very unique history. The inhabitants of Wurzburg were actually converted to Christianity in the 7th century by Irish missionaries. The most famous one was named Kilian and he has a church today in Wurzburg that commemorates him. This church is the Wurzburg Cathedral (Dom). Although this structure was built in the 11th century, it was redecorated by the succeeding generations; it was redone in the baroque and rococo style in the 18th century. Unfortunately, most of the original church was destroyed during WWII but it was rebuilt to look exactly like it did before; it kept all of the same decorations etc. To be honest, I am not a big fan of this overdone type of artwork. Although the church is impressive (it really does look like an Italian Church), I’m not sure how anyone can pray in it. I would get distracted with all the artwork, marble, and gold decorations. Maybe they should have toned the church down when they were rebuilding instead of trying to recreate its past.
There are many beautiful churches in Wurzburg because it was ruled by Bishop-Princes. This type of government only ended in the beginning of the 19th century when it became part of the state of Bavaria. These rulers were absolute in every sense of the word since they were both head of the church and the state-government. After visiting the Dom, mom and I were looking for another church on the map that was supposedly very close to the Dom. We were having trouble figuring out exactly where it was when an old woman approached us and asked (in German) what we were looking for; I told her and she said it was closed for construction and then asked if we had seen the Residence. The Residence is one of the palaces of the Bishop-Princes and is a very magnificent building right in the middle of town. I told the woman we had not seen the place yet so she took me by the arm and we walked (very slowly-I think she was in her 70’s at least) to the Residence. She then dropped mom and I off and went on her way. Although we had not planned to visit the palace until later that day, we decided not go back the way we came and to look at places around the Schloss rather than disappoint our tour guide.
The Schloss is decorated in much the same manner as the church; it was completed in 1744. It was also partly destroyed in WWII (I think I remember the tour book saying that 80% of the city was destroyed during that time) but like the church, there has been much work done on restoring it to its former state.
The palace looks like it should belong in Italy. There are frescos painted on many of the ceilings and it also actually houses the biggest uninterrupted fresco in the world. The Sistine chapel has the largest fresco but it is also has stucco and plasterwork dotted throughout the work. The palace is very grand and has a huge marble staircase, many beautiful rooms (one is even decorated all in gold) and has very extensive grounds. Napoleon traveled to Wurzburg three times and stayed at the Residence. We were able to see the rooms in which he and his mistress slept in. In all honesty, I’m not sure I could do justice to the Residence in my attempts to describe it. I think it is better just to see it. That being said, I will post some pictures here as soon as mom uploads them onto the computer. The Residence is beautiful but in a very cold and remote way. It would never be a place that I would choose to live.
The next day, Mom and I spent the morning in the Market place and we vistied the Kappele and the Fortress Marienburg on our way out of town. The Kappele is a small baroque/rococo style Catholic Church that sits across from the Fortress. Although I don’t really remember the historical details about the place, it is a very beautiful sight. I think the alter was made out of gold (we didn’t stay long as there was a mass going on at the time). The Fortress sits on the hill across the way. It overlooks the entire town and the surrounding countryside. Mom and I didn’t tour the inside since we had to be on our way to Rothenburg but we did have a picnic on its grounds. It was a fort built in the 8th century but was redone in the 17th century by the Bishop-Princes.
All in all Wurzburg is a beautiful city although you need several days to do it justice. Mom absolutely loved the town and has instructed me to find a husband in Wurzburg so she, dad, and Piper can move there.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Rothenburg was the next town on our list. It is a medieval town that, for the most part, has been perfectly preserved since the Middle Ages. After the thirty years war, time stood still there since both the population and the economy was destroyed. It was only rediscovered at the early part of the 20th century and is apparently now a huge tourist site. Only about 40% of the town was destroyed during WWII so much of the town remained intact.
We stayed at one of the bed and breakfast places just inside the old wall. The old and new parts of the city are separated by the medieval town wall, which has withstood both the test of a time and an air-raid attack. Mom and I stayed at the top-floor in this little garret and it reminded us both of Cinderella. In truth, the whole town is like a fairy-tale with the old cobblestone streets, the Easter wreaths that are hung throughout the city, and the beautiful gardens.
That night after we finished eating dinner at a local cavern, we went on a tour with the “Night Watchman”. This tour was probably my favorite part of the entire trip. Most of our tours of castles in churches were rather dry. Although these guides always gave us good information, it was usually said in a monotone and they themselves did not seem very interesting. The night watchman, on the other hand, was dressed in full costume and played his part very well. He told us very interesting facts about both the Middle Ages in general and the town itself. He showed us the famous buildings of the place, the manhole in the gatehouse (At night the town shut its gates so no enemy could get in to attack it. The manhole was a small door in the gatehouse that one could pay to use if one missed curfew. It was only big enough to let one person in at a time) and a place called “Hell”. “Hell” is a bar in Rothenburg which is the oldest establishment in town. The foundation of the building dates back to the 12th century. There is also a tiny gold image of a devil that hangs from the door. No one knows why it was named “Hell” but as the night watchman put it “Go to Hell” is not just an insult in Rothenburg but it is also a good recommendation.
The next day we went to the Reichmuseum there. This museum is built into the cloisters and has a nice collection of antique weaponry, religious items, etc. It also has one of the first German Bibles, which Martin Luther translated. The most interesting part of the Museum, in my opinion, was its Jewish exhibit. It had many old Menorah’s, Shabbat candles, Torah scrolls from the Middle Ages, and some Jewish Gravestone pieces. The Jews in Rothenburg had a sad fate during that time. They were the victims of a Pogrom and for the most part wiped out. Rabbi Meir also made Rothenburg his home for a time. He was a very famous Talmudic scholar during the medieval ages and opened up his own school there.
Rothenburg, in many ways, is a tourist trap. It is such a picturesque little town that it is impossible to leave it without buying something. Mom fell victim to its Christmas Museum where she purchased its Christmas Ornaments and I caved and bought a lot of artwork there. They are mostly sketches of the town itself but they were so well done that I couldn’t resist. I know I will have them for the rest of my life so I consider the money well spent.
Fussen, Schloss Neuschwanstein, and Weiskirche
Our final stop on our journey was Fussen and Neuschwanstein. Fussen is a pretty little town that sits right below the Alps. We were blessed with perfect weather the entire trip but it was especially beautiful on the day we walked up to see Neuschwanstein. It is nestled right into the Alps and if you walk a little further away, you can cross the Marienbridge which sits above a small river and some rapids.
King Ludwig II of Bavaria built Neuschwanstein at the end of the 19th century. Because he became a recluse in the later years of his life (although he did die relatively young at the age of 40), he wanted to build a retreat where he could be at peace and away from the eyes of others. He was much inspired by Richard Wagner’s operas and made Neuschwanstein, in a way, homage to them. The rooms (except for the crown room and his dressing room) are all painted with scenes from these operas; the castle itself is dedicated to Wagner although he unfortunately died before he could step into it.
The castle is uncompleted since Ludwig died during its construction. Therefore only two of the floors are finished. The throne room is even missing its throne. After he died, all construction ceased partly because Ludwig was heavily in debt due to his many building projects. I bought a biography of him and it said that he was fascinated by architecture and studied it. This is one of the reasons why he started to build so many palaces. He wanted to create his own fantasy world. I find Ludwig II very intriguing so If I write more posts about him on this blog, that’s the reason why; I also really want to learn more about Wagner and his operas now.
After the castle, we drove to the Wieskirche. In mom’s travel book, it said that this was a beautiful church not to far from Neuschwanstein but somewhat off the beaten path. Well the way that Gertha (our GPS system) took us was really off the beaten path; we were in farmland on dirt roads. Although there was an easier way to get there, which was on paved roads, we think Gertha was programmed to find the shortest route. This explains why we were on a path with only farmers. The church is in a beautiful location although it seems severely out of place. It is done in the rococo style and it is apparently a pilgrimage site since a women claimed to see tears fall from the face of a portrait of Jesus. Again, this is another site that is hard to describe. I will put up pictures so you can both the beautiful countryside and the somewhat gaudy church.
After that we made our way back to Tuebingen. We stopped at Ulm for dinner and Mom got to see the Ulmer Munster.
Happy Easter!